My fifth week at
the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation, and half of the field study time,
has passed. This has been a slow but exciting week as I have just sent out the
surveys for the study. I have contacted CR managers at 9 very interesting,
Swedish fashion companies and asked them questions about how their
organisations prioritize and communicate sustainability, and what drives their
work in the sustainability field. After just a few hours I had already received
two answers. One in the survey form, and one through a telephone interview. And
actually a third one as well, who asked for the deadline, as she really wanted
to participate. It is unnecessary to say, that I feel quite positive about this
study.
Interestingly,
the three people who gave me immediate response all work for companies in the
outdoor sector. My personal belief, going in to this study, was that this
category of companies are especially driven towards sustainability as their
entire business model builds on a passion towards nature. They design and
produce garments to better be prepared to enjoy nature, so they simply can’t do
anything to harm it. If so, they would harm their own business and passion. I believe
that this is so rooted in their brands, that they cant really choose not to
participate in this kind of survey. These companies are rather small brands as
well, which gives another reason for them to take part - it is a great channel
to build brand awareness and credibility without spending anything at all but
time. Especially as the study is conducted and published via a major
stakeholder organisation for textile companies in Sweden. I hope that the third
brand will send in their answer soon as well, to be able to analyse
similarities and differences even within this category of companies. After just
two days, I have also received answers from a very sustainability driven denim
brand.
Besides the
outdoor category, I am awaiting answers from some of our major fast fashion
companies as well as two more renowned high fashion brands with a more “slow”
character. I am very excited to see who is willing to take the time for this,
and to understand the perspectives and drivers of these seemingly different
companies. The one thing that is common to most of the respondents, in all
categories, is that they are all known for their engagement in sustainability. They are all motivated to work
towards a more sustainable fashion business, but there might be big differences
in the way they perceive sustainability and the reasons and tools to get there.
In this study I am not interested in judging what companies do or don’t do, but
rather understand why and how they want to be sustainable.
Im surprised by
the ease of receiving answers for this study, and I think that it is due to two
things - first of all it is due to the respect that these companies hold for
the SSNC organisation as an important stakeholder, source of knowledge and as a
critical reviewer of the fashion industry. But most importantly, it shows that
the study is right in time. Sustainability is finally at the top level of
priority among some of our most beloved brands, and they understand the
importance of turning the industry around. They know that it is vital for their
survival, even though mainstream consumer segments are still not purposely
asking for it. They can see that something is happening and they are willing to
take part and to drive the change, to educate consumers and to prepare themselves
for the business environment of the future. This is independent of what
motivates them, be it financial prospects or a true value based engagement, but
sustainability is definitely on the agenda.
This is also stated in a recent article in the industry paper Habit, according Svensk Handel 42% of the member companies put more resources into sustainability and CSR than the year before. The amount of companies working with these issues have increased from 7 out of 10, to 8 out of 10 companies since 2013. Among the larger companies, almost everyone is working towards environmental and social improvements in their supply chains.
Even though we still have a looong way to go (and no kind of production or consumption can be truly sustainable as it always contains use of resources) this is definitely uplifting news. The process has just begun, but it speaks of great changes in the coming years. We are on our way!
Emelie
Emelie
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