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The Journey Before the Store.
Let me
take you on a journey, behind the scenes of what truly happens to garments before
they get to the stores. When people shop in secondhand stores, it often feels
like everything donated simply ends up on the shop floor. From my experience
working at Erikshjälpen so far, I have realized that this not the case. There
is a detailed and structured process that determines what is sold, what is
repaired, what is sent to other countries and what is removed completely.
The
sorting process begins with what is known as light sorting. At this stage, clothes
are quickly assessed and separated into different categories. For example,
clothes from the brand “157” are placed in a box labelled for Estonia and are
sent there. Items that are still good but need some form of repair, washing, or
treatment are placed in what is called the Human Bridge box. These items are
later picked up, processed, and eventually returned for sale if they meet the
required standard.
Other garments
that are clean, meet quality standards and need no mending will be placed in a large
wooden box for further sorting. Accessories such as caps, scarves, ties, and
gloves are sorted separately into their own category. There are also special
sorting boxes for seasonal items like Christmas clothing, as well as for well-known
sports brands such as Addidas and Nike.
After the
light sorting stage, the process moves into heavy sorting. This is where the
large wooden box from light sorting is further divided into more specific
categories. Clothing is sorted into different groups such as men’s trousers,
women’s trousers, women’s tops, men’s tops, women’s jackets and raincoats,
button-down jackets, dresses and skirts, and children’s clothing from ages 0 to
youth.
In
addition to these categories, there are also specific containers for items that
cannot be sold. Torn or damaged clothes are separated, and gym wear is also
placed in its own category. Interestingly, I observed that items from certain
fast fashion brands, particularly Shein, are often discarded and do not proceed
further in the system. Personal items such as underwear, socks, bras, and
swimwear are also removed and never make it to the shop floor.
Once the
sorting is completed, the remaining items are prepared for pricing. What stood
out to me is that pricing is not based on how new or visually appealing an item
looks, but rather on an existing price list determined by brand of clothes. This
shows how structured and standardized the system is, rather than subjective.
Overall,
this experience has given me a deeper understanding of how much work happens
behind the scenes in secondhand retail. It is not simply about reselling
donated clothes, but about making careful decisions at every stage. The process
ensures quality, consistency, and efficiency, while also highlighting that not
everything donated is suitable for reuse.
I have also learned that it is better to invest in quality
clothes from good brands, as they are more likely to retain secondhand value.
Additionally, I have come to understand that buying secondhand clothes does not
make you inferior rather, it means you are part of a larger cycle of
sustainability and reuse.
Suror
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