A blog from the University of Borås

Wednesday 21 August 2019

Goodbye Asket - Pt. 3


I have now come to the end of my internship and I must say it was a journey with lot of learnings and fun tasks.

During the last phase I had to conduct a set of in-depth interviews for my research and it was so much fun to be able to contact people from different department and work with them to collect data. It was my first time for conducting interviews and hence it was a learning experience in itself. I was a little skeptical about doing it however the team here was very supportive in sharing their data and perspectives which has hugely contributed to my field study.

In the last phase I was also able to have a closer look on their marketing strategies for brand development. Asket is currently working on what is called a 360 degree marketing plan in order to reach a larger segment of consumer and spread their message. It was amazing for me as an intern to see how a brand does that. I would definitely say that working with a startup gives you such a wide lens and exposure to work with and learn from different departments and areas.

All in all , I loved my time here and cheers for the wonderful Asket team J 

Noopur

Sunday 18 August 2019

Post 3/3

Hello!

The report for my research assistant internship about consumer perspective of sustainability is almost finished. The two biggest parts have been the literature review and the analysis of the data from the survey I conducted. The hardest parts of the report has been programing how the data will be shown and analysing all the results together with the results from the literature review. The next focus will be the finishing touches of the report and preparing for the upcoming presentation!

Emma

Monday 12 August 2019

Post 2/3

Hello!

For my research assistant internship I am now analysing all the data for the survey I conducted about the consumer perspective on sustainability. It has been fun but a little bit more difficult than I expected! For the survey I used the service Sunet, through Sunet you can choose how you want the data, which has been really helpful. However, it has not been the easiest program to use... But I’m getting some good results from the survey and will hopefully be able to present the report soon!

Emma

Sunday 11 August 2019

The Current State in Hong Kong and the end of my internship

Hello again,

like i said in the blog before, Hong Kong is in a hassle. Since the Hong Kong government tried pushing though an extradition law (making it possible to trial Hong Kong citizens in Mainland China) a big portion of the city has turned to the streets to call for more political freedom from the Beijing government.
The extradition law has been announced 'dead' but not withdrawn completely, now these protests have turned into a pro-democracy movement (descending from the umbrella movement in 2014).

Most of these so-called "rioters" are young activists and students who fight for a future with perspectives of democracy. (Since Britain has given back Hong Kong to China, they signed an agreement which states that Hong Kong should keep its legal system and democratic rights for its citizens until 2047) According to activists China has already broken its promise, for example pro democracy politicians have been forbidden to run for election) I had the possibility to talk to some young men who seem extremely stressed and frightened for the future of their country, facing terrible violence of the police (called corrupt) and triads (allegedly paid by the Chinese government).
Every Sunday the city seems to be in an exceptional state where streets are turning into war zones between protesters and the riot police. It seems that the police is getting more and more aggressive as the weeks pass. I personally have only witnessed two protests - one of which I took part in (seemingly as the only foreigner but treated kindly by the people around me). Seeing these young people being beaten bloody, shoved to the ground and shot with rubber bullets and tear gas makes me feel unwell and saddens me deeply. This fight seems so hopeless to me, since China taking back Hong Kong seems inevitable. I tried to share as much material of the protests on social media to let my friends know of what is going on here, because right now the only hope these demonstrators have is the public eye of the western countries.

I wouldn't have thought it, but slowly I also don't dare to get near the protest since also expats have been arrested and I can't even protect myself without a helmet or a mask. I asked a friend and fellow demonstrator if I should worry. "Don't worry my friend, just be water. They can't get you" he said.
"Being water" is a saying coming from Bruce Lee and means to not be really here nor there and so impossible to be captured.

I have met a young woman while being out on a Friday night in Tsim Sha Tsui. "Hong Kong is sick, Hong Kong is sick. Hong Kong is not safe anymore." she almost chanted over and over again. She obviously was drunk. Her boyfriend told us that they go out drinking after every protest. She was deeply hurt and obviously desperate, being trapped in a once intact democracy and being disappointed by the violence of the police. I told her I thought I could feel how she felt and that I saw how bad it was. I promised her to do as best I could to spread the word in my home countries. She fell into my arms and started crying.

All pictures are taken from Joshua Wongs Twitter profile (https://twitter.com/joshuawongcf)

Apart from that my internship has taken a turn since Peak Performance moved offices and into a new office space together with Amer Sports (the mother company who bought PP).

The team seemed a little more tense and the tasks I'm doing seemed to be less exciting than before.
The internship obviously hasn't been what I hoped it would be. I couldn't gather enough data to create a good field study and towards the end of my internship I got sick very often, my work as been very repetitive as well. I wasn't happy always. This demotivation I'm feeling has only really been revised because of the fact I lived in this beautiful city and met the people I met. Hong Kong's buzz kept me alive, but Hong Kong is sick now...

Tuesday 6 August 2019

Visiting garment factories in Vietnam and China

Hello everyone,

the situation in Hong Kong is a little crazy so forgive me for my long overdue second and third post. In my following third post I will tell you guys a little bit about the protests in Hong Kong.

But first; As part of my internship I had the awesome opportunity to visit garment factories (some already partners of Peak Performance/ some potential partners) in Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, Hanoi and near Shenzhen.

My impression of the facilities was good, let's say the negative expectations that the word 'sweat shop' draws in my head were not met. Still I couldn't keep myself from feeling privileged when walking past the lines of the sewing workers. Some were smiling or even waving, many looked at me with a rather puzzled or curious look. It was loud, hot and humid  (Im still in a south east asian country of course) but the workers still wore long sleeves, so I guess it couldn't have been that bad?

I had the possibility to see how sustainable downs (Peak Performance works with the Sustainable Down Standard, which only allows downs as a byproduct of the food and meat industry to be used) are being processed into down jackets and saw how much effort is being put into drying clothes after finishing them (because of the humidity in these countries, clothes often mold in transit).
What I found interesting was the difference in standards depending on who owns the production.
I saw Korean, Chinese and Danish owned companies. There was a danish factory which provided Air Conditioned facilities for their workers. A facility in China had a dormitory, library and a Mensa for their workers.

After talking to the owners it seemed like the factories have to move more and more outside into the country in order to still be lucrative as a work place, because big cities offer a lot of alternatives to working as a seamstress. Finding workforce in the textile industry gets harder and harder. Generally my impression was, that operating garment productions was a un-lucrative business, where the production is still mostly dealt with by hand which hinges the industry on finding cheap skilled workforce, at the same time there are different precautions to be taken into account (certifications and safety/comfort of the workers). There were some production areas in which I could see the first steps in automation, but generally it takes investment into garment technicians to develop new machines which make sewing easier and less dependent on skilled workforce. One danish factory has showed us some newly developed machines, but the industry still seems far from being automated.

My questions about working hours and breaks for the workers were answered satisfactory. Over-time work only seems to be a problem in China, where the workers - often migratory workers - want to work overtime in order to be able to return to their homes with as much money as possible earned. Social Compliance Certifications like BSCI thus often don't grade Chinese factories very well. But the Vietnamese factories did not seek to have problems with social compliance.

My bottom line is actually rather positive. Textile workforce does simple work in a simple environment but what I saw was no exploitation. Of course I can only speak for south-east asian countries in the middle to premium priced sector, I don't know what it looks like in, for instance, Bangladesh.

I can not show you too explicit pictures (because there were products of other clients being sewn) but here are some examples:

workers walking to the cafeteria to have lunch in a manufacturing site in South China

Cutting tables in a manufacturing site in South China
Storage room in manufacturing site in HCMC, Vietnam
'Down Machine' in Da Nang Factory, Vietnam


Drying room and my boss taking pictures of it


Monday 5 August 2019

#OneVoiceforCraft - Chapter 1: India - 12 days of interview transcriptions (ethnographic research)

I decided to leave the third field study post for after my return from India.

I couldn't have predicted that the analysis of the data gathered would prove so challenging. 

Being the first ethnographic study I ever conducted, I went equipped with a folder full of questions not realizing that many of the answers I would get would only generate more questions.

It took me more than a month to process all the information I collected, categorize the responses and map the relationships between the interviewees and the Initial Connectors (see #OneVoiceforCraft - Chapter 1: India - day 48 in India - http://textilemanagement.blogspot.com/2019/05/onevoiceforcraft-chapter-1-india-day-48.html). There was little surprise to find out that after doing so it became clear from the data that the subject of the Field Study needed to be reformulated. "Designing & Conducting Ethnographic Research" by LeCompte, M.D, & Schensul, J.J (1999) has been a fundamental tool.

It became clear that during the 60 days in India the most relevant result of this study was the actual profiling of the artisans - artisans with different personal stories, different degrees of access to opportunities, different levels of income, different dreams - all part of the same culture and with access to the same heritage in textile knowledge. 
As such I decided to restrict the focus of the Field Study Report to concentrate on artisan profiling. Out of the 30 interview questions I selected the 11 most relevant to profiling and grouped them in 3 categories - questions relative to competences & relationship with the craft (role determinants) - skill level and design autonomy determine the artisans' professional role in the craft community; questions related to income and reputation  (status determinants) and personal, intimate questions. 

I. ROLE DETERMINANTS (COMPETENCES & RELATIONSHIP w.CRAFT)
COMPETENCES: 
1. How did you learn to do this specific activity/craft? 
2. Do you conceive/come up with the design yourself?
RELATIONSHIP WITH CRAFT:
3. What are you thinking about when you exercise your craft?
4. What does your craft mean to you? To your family? 
5.     Do you enjoy what you do?

II. STATUS DETERMINANTS (INCOME & REPUTATION) 
6. What distribution channels are available to you (how do you sell?)
7. What nationalities do your customers have?
8. What do you consider to be a fair payment for your contribution?

III. PERSONAL:
9. What is your biggest dream?
10. If you could choose anything else in the world to do, what would it be?
11. What is your life advice for me?

The actual transcription of the interviews (short form as per the 11 questions selected) took 12 days. Inevitably listening to a recording implies re-living the actual interview, it takes the ethnographic researcher back in time and often reveals new meanings of the information. It also gives you the opportunity to analyse yourself as an interviewer, potential biases, mistakes or limitations. 
I never transcribed more than one interview a day in an attempt to mirror the initial interviewing process. I also kept the initial interview sequence for the transcriptions, in accordance to the #onevoiceforcraft interview timeline - https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d5b008_e4583b861e52455487873d0524f81db8.pdf.

After completing the stages presented about and once I applied the Pentagon of Research test (Rieneker and Jörgensen, 2006), I am now elaborating the content of the Report.

I hope this information proves useful to anyone conducting ethnographic research as part of their Individual Field Study project.