A blog from the University of Borås

Friday 12 December 2014

The survey


My fifth week at the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation, and half of the field study time, has passed. This has been a slow but exciting week as I have just sent out the surveys for the study. I have contacted CR managers at 9 very interesting, Swedish fashion companies and asked them questions about how their organisations prioritize and communicate sustainability, and what drives their work in the sustainability field. After just a few hours I had already received two answers. One in the survey form, and one through a telephone interview. And actually a third one as well, who asked for the deadline, as she really wanted to participate. It is unnecessary to say, that I feel quite positive about this study.

Interestingly, the three people who gave me immediate response all work for companies in the outdoor sector. My personal belief, going in to this study, was that this category of companies are especially driven towards sustainability as their entire business model builds on a passion towards nature. They design and produce garments to better be prepared to enjoy nature, so they simply can’t do anything to harm it. If so, they would harm their own business and passion. I believe that this is so rooted in their brands, that they cant really choose not to participate in this kind of survey. These companies are rather small brands as well, which gives another reason for them to take part - it is a great channel to build brand awareness and credibility without spending anything at all but time. Especially as the study is conducted and published via a major stakeholder organisation for textile companies in Sweden. I hope that the third brand will send in their answer soon as well, to be able to analyse similarities and differences even within this category of companies. After just two days, I have also received answers from a very sustainability driven denim brand.

Besides the outdoor category, I am awaiting answers from some of our major fast fashion companies as well as two more renowned high fashion brands with a more “slow” character. I am very excited to see who is willing to take the time for this, and to understand the perspectives and drivers of these seemingly different companies. The one thing that is common to most of the respondents, in all categories, is that they are all known for their engagement in sustainability.  They are all motivated to work towards a more sustainable fashion business, but there might be big differences in the way they perceive sustainability and the reasons and tools to get there. In this study I am not interested in judging what companies do or don’t do, but rather understand why and how they want to be sustainable.

Im surprised by the ease of receiving answers for this study, and I think that it is due to two things - first of all it is due to the respect that these companies hold for the SSNC organisation as an important stakeholder, source of knowledge and as a critical reviewer of the fashion industry. But most importantly, it shows that the study is right in time. Sustainability is finally at the top level of priority among some of our most beloved brands, and they understand the importance of turning the industry around. They know that it is vital for their survival, even though mainstream consumer segments are still not purposely asking for it. They can see that something is happening and they are willing to take part and to drive the change, to educate consumers and to prepare themselves for the business environment of the future. This is independent of what motivates them, be it financial prospects or a true value based engagement, but sustainability is definitely on the agenda.

This is also stated in a recent article in the industry paper Habit, according Svensk Handel 42% of the member companies put more resources into sustainability and CSR than the year before. The amount of companies working with these issues have increased from 7 out of 10, to 8 out of 10 companies since 2013. Among the larger companies, almost everyone is working towards environmental and social improvements in their supply chains.

Even though we still have a looong way to go (and no kind of production or consumption can be truly sustainable as it always contains use of resources) this is definitely uplifting news. The process has just begun, but it speaks of great changes in the coming years. We are on our way!

Emelie

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